Kendo places#6: Tobukan (東武館) 水戸東武館

Of the three great private dojo in Japan (日本の3大私塾道場) – Honma Dojo (Chiba), Shubukan (Hyogo), and Tobukan (Ibaraki) – two remain extant at the time of writing this article: Shubukan and Tobukan. Having been to Shubukan, I decided to take sometime out of my schedule and go to practise at the legendary Tobukan in Mito city, Ibaraki prefecture, and learn more about this influential dojo.

Tobukan was founded on the 1st of January 1874, just three years after the abolition of the domain system in Japan and creation of the modern prefectural system. Mito-han had been an extremely influential domain and was the home of many radical thinkers centered around the domain school Kodokan.

The founder of Tobukan was one Kozawa Torakichi, a Mito-han clansman who had been a kenjutsu instructor at Kodokan along with Chiba Shusaku (the founder of Hokushin-itto-ryu, and an extremely influential figure in kendo’s history). Before taking the post he studied Hokushin itto-ryu at Chiba’s dojo in Edo – Genbukan.

Tobukan turned out many famous kenshi over the years with the most influential being perhaps Naito Takaharu – keishicho gekkiken shihan, and later Busen shihan (Budo Senmon Gakko). He helped develop kendo no kata and counts amongst his students Saimura Goro, Mochida Moriji, and Ogawa Kinnosuke (none of whom need an introduction), to name a few. Famous kenshi that came out of Tobukan at the same time were Monna Tadashi (taught at Keishicho and Busen, took part in 2 tenran shiai (one as competitor, another as shimpan), and helped develop kendo no kata ) and Sasaki Masanobu (taught at Keishicho and Butokukai, as well as other prefectures like Saga and Kagoshima).

(l-r) Mona Tadashi, Sasaki Masanobu, Naito Takaharu

I think its safe to say that what was studied by these kenshi as boys and young men in Tobukan probably had an impact on their kendo and their teaching later on in life, and influenced their students too . This impact and its mark on the development of modern kendo cannot, of course, be quantified, but it doesn’t take a stretch of the imagination to guess that it possibly could have been large.

Private ownership of Tobukan has continued to be passed down through the Kozawa family, and the tradition of practising kendo, iaido, and Hokushin itto-ryu is still alive 135 years after its founding (being a direct spiritual descendant of Kodokan you could cheekily add another 30 years to that!).

Keiko at Tobukan

Currently kendo, iaido, naginata, and Hokushin itto-ryu are practised at Tokbukan. There are at least two kendo hachidans, two iaido hachidans, and two naginata kyoshi’s.

Tobukan is open to anyone who wishes to practise. Simply get in touch before hand (via email or phone) and explain when you are planning to go. In the five days I was in Mito I managed to get to keiko three times with little fuss.

Impression

Hokushin itto-ryu embu at Tobukan

Tobukan is soaked with history. Now that the old Noma dojo was dismantled there are few places that are open to the public where you can practise kendo in a more traditional surrounding. I mentioned Noma Dojo, but Tobukan was built half a century earlier than that, when Samurai still existed and walked around carrying swords. Its a different feeling practising in this dojo compared with modern ones, and one that all serious kenshi should endevour to experience, at least once in their lives.

Getting there

Tobukan is an easy 10 minute walk from Mito station – even with your bogu bag.

For up to date schedule/contact information please visit their website: http://www.toubukan.or.jp/.

Published by

George

I'm the founder and chief editor of kenshi247.net. Amongst other things I am a high school kendo club coach, an avid practitioner of classical swordsmanship, a history student, and a vegetarian.

6 thoughts on “Kendo places#6: Tobukan (東武館) 水戸東武館

  1. Hi George, I remember training Iaido in Edinburgh in 1996-97 with you. It was when I introduced David McLean to Iaido but my main bu was Kyudo. I had just opened Scotland’s first Kyudojo moving to Scotland from Hamburg, Germany. I can’t remember if you were part of Romily Squire’s Kendo club as well. Just to let you know that I practice Iaido at the Tobukan for two years in 1997-1999 and it was amazing what I learned. I am now in Glasgow with Billy Smart.
    Torsten

  2. Hey Torsten,

    I remember you! I was in America in 1996 (but started with Romilly before then) … and didn’t get back to Edinburgh until around 2001-ish… where I took over the club. I think thats around when I met you. I had started teaching iaido in adjunct to kendo at Edinburgh kendo club, the first time iaido was taught in Edinburgh I think. Long time ago now.

    Good luck in Glasgow!

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