While I was in Kyoto for work at the end of July, I ended up swinging by a historical site that is associated with Miyamoto Musashi: Ichijoji.

Four years after Sekigahara the young Musashi came to the capital. Here he is said to have challenged the Yoshioka school to a duel. Musashi defeated the head of the school, then his successor. The Yoshioka – being one of the most famous schools in the city – could not stand the shame of defeat and asked for a rematch. This time his opponent would be the new head of the school – and the 3rd of three brothers (Musashi having defeated his two elder brothers). Leaving nothing to chance, the supporters of the school selected an isolated area on the outskirts of the town and prepared an ambush. The ambush of-course did not go as the Yoshioka group expected and Musashi not only survived unhurt, but defeated the last of the Yoshioka brothers as well. The shame of this defeat damaged the schools reputation so much that the school was effectively destroyed.

The place that this last ambush took place was – of course – Ichijoji.

As with almost everything associated with the life and times of Musashi, its often difficult to separate fact from fiction. At any rate, its a good romantic swordsmanship story!!

Nowadays Ichijoji temple doesn’t exist. There is a small area, however, dedicated to the dual and a pine tree grows under which it is said that the last battle fought. Of-course its not the exact same tree (its the 4th!), but a branch of the original tree is stored in Hachidai jinja, a short walk to the east.

Although the area is small and a little bit hard to get to, its a nice relaxing trip out of the always-tourist-swamped temples of Kyoto.

Getting there

Address: Kyoto Saikyoku Ichijojisagarimachi-cho
Bus: Its a 3 minute walk by City Bus from “Ichijojisagarimachi-cho.”
Train: Take the small Eizan train from Demachiyanagi station (its connected with the Keihan line) and get off at “Ichijoji” station. From there its about 6 minutes walk east.
Cost: free