While I was in Kyoto for work at the end of July, I ended up swinging by a historical site that is associated with Miyamoto Musashi: Ichijoji.

Four years after Sekigahara the young Musashi came to the capital. Here he is said to have challenged the Yoshioka school to a duel. Musashi defeated the head of the school, then his successor. The Yoshioka – being one of the most famous schools in the city – could not stand the shame of defeat and asked for a rematch. This time his opponent would be the new head of the school – and the 3rd of three brothers (Musashi having defeated his two elder brothers). Leaving nothing to chance, the supporters of the school selected an isolated area on the outskirts of the town and prepared an ambush. The ambush of-course did not go as the Yoshioka group expected and Musashi not only survived unhurt, but defeated the last of the Yoshioka brothers as well. The shame of this defeat damaged the schools reputation so much that the school was effectively destroyed.

The place that this last ambush took place was – of course – Ichijoji.

As with almost everything associated with the life and times of Musashi, its often difficult to separate fact from fiction. At any rate, its a good romantic swordsmanship story!!

Nowadays Ichijoji temple doesn’t exist. There is a small area, however, dedicated to the dual and a pine tree grows under which it is said that the last battle fought. Of-course its not the exact same tree (its the 4th!), but a branch of the original tree is stored in Hachidai jinja, a short walk to the east.

Although the area is small and a little bit hard to get to, its a nice relaxing trip out of the always-tourist-swamped temples of Kyoto.

Getting there

Address: Kyoto Saikyoku Ichijojisagarimachi-cho
Bus: Its a 3 minute walk by City Bus from “Ichijojisagarimachi-cho.”
Train: Take the small Eizan train from Demachiyanagi station (its connected with the Keihan line) and get off at “Ichijoji” station. From there its about 6 minutes walk east.
Cost: free

in 1895 on the 1,100 year anniversary of the transferring of the Japanese capitol to Kyoto (Heian-kyo), and as part of the building of Heian-jingu, the Butokuden construction began. It was originally meant as a demonstration platform for the Butokukai. It was completed in 1899 on the north-west side of the Heian-jingu complex. If was then also designated as a school for training Martial Arts teachers (later it would become the Budo Senmon Gakko).

At that time it was said “in the east there is Kodokan (built 1841), and in the west the Butokuden” such was its place in the center of Japanese budo circles.

Changing times

After the war GHQ dissolved the Butokukai, closed the Budo Senmon Gakko, and the occupying troups confiscated the building. In 1951 Kyoto City bought the Butokuden and it was used by Kyoto Police academy from 1952 until it was closed in 1956. From then on the building was used by the Kyoto City University of Arts music club.

Nowadays

In 1980, after the Kyoto City University Arts music club was closed down, Kyoto City wondered what to do with the now unused Butokuden. The All Japan Kendo Federation (ZNKR) and the Kyoto Kendo Federation made an appeal to the city, the result of which was that the Butokuden would be saved for future generations. In 1983 the building was appraised as a great example of a large wooden structure from the Meiji period and was designated a Kyoto City Tangible Cultural Property. Furthermore, in 1996 is was designated a Japanese Important Cultural Property.

It was in this manner that the Butokuden has been passed down to our generation today and still serves as a place to demonstrate and practise budo.

Every May, from the 2nd-6th, the Butokuden serves as the focus for the Zen Nippon Embu Taikai (also popularly known as the Kyoto Taikai). About 3,000 people (minimum grade is Renshi 6dan) come from all over Japan, and from various countries all over the world, to display the results of their kendo training in the past year.

Links:
Butokuden (Kyoto Budo Centre)
Kyoto Kendo Renmei
606-8323, Kyoto-shi , Saikyo-ku, Shougoin Entomi-cho 46-2